Once again, as we approached this year’s grape harvest, a sense of apprehension loomed in the air. The vintage in Italy has been marked by substantial climatic and phytosanitary hurdles, leading to significant losses in several regions. However, amidst these challenges, the carefully selected grapes hold the promise of delivering substantial quality.
A palpable excitement abounds at this moment in the wine cellars of Italy. The vineyards are a hive of activity, with workers tirelessly moving between rows of vines to harvest the grapes. The berries dance merrily on sorting tables, while the presses accompany them gently on their transformation into a new life within the bottle. The cellar is filled with the intoxicating aroma of fermenting must, mingling with the pungent scent of carbon dioxide. Everything may seem ordinary and expected, yet we find ourselves in the midst of a vintage that will be remembered as one of the most challenging and cursed ever.
This is no secret; it has been a topic of discussion for several months now. However, armed with data, numerous visits to the several vineyards, and direct input from many producers, we aim to dispel a misguided notion: a difficult vintage does not necessarily equate to inferior wine quality.
The Estimates from Assoenologi, UIV, and ISMEA
Let’s delve into the details, beginning with the quantity estimates provided by the collaborative efforts of Assoenologi, UIV, and ISMEAโorganizations that combine their survey networks, in partnership with the relevant Masaf office and regional authorities.
The landscape that emerges is diverse, with northern regions displaying resilience in the face of greater losses in the central and southern regions, where Abruzzo and Molise, in particular, have been significantly impacted. However, the anxieties, sleepless nights, and tireless efforts in the vineyards have been evenly distributed throughout the peninsula.
It is crucial to remember that behind every statistic and figure, there are thousands of livelihoods at stake, all dependent on the unpredictable whims of nature. Nature, which has become increasingly unpredictable and intolerant, often inflicting damage on agriculture, the sector that places the highest emphasis on environmental sustainability.
Incessant Spring Rains and the Onset of Downy Mildew
This year, spring brought relentless rainfall, fostering the emergence of Downy mildew during critical growth phasesโbud development, flowering, and fruit set. These are the phases when the fungus is most aggressive.
In some instances, flooding made it challenging to access the vineyards for phytosanitary treatments, leading to a second wave of attacks that affected grape clusters as well. As if that weren’t enough, severe hailstorms wreaked havoc on some vineyards, destroying even the buds for the following year.
The extent of the damage varied greatly, with significant disparities even within the same vineyard. Organic farms faced greater challenges, with fewer options to combat the cryptogamic emergency. Nonetheless, some plants displayed remarkable resilience, partly due to their positioning and varietal resistance.
Surviving Grapes Promising Quality
It is important to dispel the notion that unpredictable seasonal variations necessarily result in quality issuesโa notion rooted in outdated knowledge and technical abilities. Resourceful wineries, though facing tremendous sacrifices and unwavering determination, salvaged what they could by carefully bringing clusters to the cellar. These clusters were far from battered, offering a tangible perspective on an exceedingly demanding vintage.
In terms of sparkling bases and white grape varieties, with the harvest coming to conclusion in the next few days, the unique climatic conditions, characterized by significant temperature fluctuations in some regions, have preserved a favorable level of acidity and fortified an excellent aromatic heritage, promising gratifying results.
As for the renowned red wine varieties, their harvest will extend into late October. The quality trajectory will once again be influenced by weather conditions, as optimal ripening completion holds the potential for excellence. The latter part of summer has been kind in this regard, and optimism abounds that October will bring more sunny days.
Encouraging tales from the fields reveal that many grapes have secured their place in the cellar, instilling hope even among farms that have suffered losses of up to 70 percent. Despite significant setbacks, all signs point to remaining grapes being of commendable quality in terms of phenolic and aromatic concentration.
A Challenge for Winemakers
This has been a year that winemakers will want to forget, as opposed to those who will gladly savor the fruits of their labor. Hence, we caution against making hasty and unsupported judgments that could further burden a sector already severely tested by this tumultuous year, where the extraordinary has become the norm. It has been a challenge to the very end, but also an opportunity to learn new ways of working and adapt to unforeseen circumstances in the relentless pursuit of survival.
“We’ve learned something new, the vines and all of us,” recounts an experienced and optimistic vigneron, despite a wild boar incursion into his most prized vineyard.
Regardless of the unique circumstances faced by each winemaker, there is unanimous agreement on one fundamental truth: the eagerness to begin anew and nurture their enduring love for the land. Their unwavering connection to the earth remains an unbreakable bond. As we raise our glasses to savor Italian wine in the future, let us offer a heartfelt toast in honor of the dedication and passion that our producers consistently pour into their craft, especially during such trying and demanding vintages.
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