Appreciating Francesco De Sanctis’ Frascati wines requires more than just a sip; it demands understanding the enigmatic personality behind the label. Francesco, a reserved and introverted vintner, guards his world with a discerning heart.
Nestled in their elegant estate, the De Sanctis family opens their doors to wine enthusiasts in search of authenticity, drawing them beyond the boundaries of Rome to uncover this hidden gem.
However, sharing one’s craft openly is a world apart from revealing one’s true self and deepest emotions. Those familiar with my writings know that this is a crucial step in narrating the story of a winery, its wines, and its protagonists.
Francesco and his vineyards
It took three visits to truly grasp Francesco’s essence. An afternoon spent amidst vineyards, the winery, and more, allowed me to finally glimpse his character. Like assembling the pieces of a puzzle, his story unfolded into a harmonious and complete picture at last. Born amid the vineyards of the family business, established in 1816, Francesco embraced his destiny as an all-encompassing vigneron. He pursued formal education at Cormons, home to the Faculty of Enology at the University of Udine.
As we walked through the vineyards in winter, a unique and poignant charm enveloped the surroundings. The vines, especially the ancient ones, stood exposed in their graceful, sinuous silhouettes, while twilight cast an evocative aura. The organic farm boasts 86.5 acres, cultivating the typical varieties of Frascati DOC and Superiore DOCG: Malvasia Puntinata, Bombino, Malvasia di Candia, and Trebbiano. As I marveled at some truly monumental plants, Francesco delved into his narrative.
“These vines,” he remarked, “are the ones that pay the mortgage, as my grandfather used to say.”
“But aren’t older vines less productive?” I inquired.
“Not Malvasia. It only becomes more prolific with age, and the grapes are exceptional!”
Cabernet Franc – a legacy from Cormons
As we continued through the rows, the vineyard’s morphology underwent a sudden transformation. We crossed into the 2.5-acre realm dearest to Francesco, a small Cabernet Franc vineyard—a passion that took root during his days in Cormons. While it took time to dispel the skepticism of his father, Luigi, choices born of genuine passion invariably prove correct. It’s not the first time that a young enthusiast, in love with a grape variety seemingly foreign to a region, defies convention to cultivate it. And from what I have seen, these tales often have happy endings.
“Cabernet Franc is the last to be harvested here. This year, just days before the harvest, a midnight hailstorm struck. I rushed to the vineyard to assess the damage and immediately rallied my team. We harvested everything that night, working incessanlty untill dawn. Some might think I’m crazy, but these grapes are my creatures. Wouldn’t you get up at night to ensure everything is well in your children’s bedroom?”
He hit the mark! The hailstorm may have battered his Cabernet Franc, but Francesco would have done it regardless. These grapes, the fruits of a year’s hard labor, were ready to “sacrifice” themselves for a new life—first in the vats, then in the bottle, ultimately delivering moments of pure joy to our glasses. When we speak of wines crafted with love and dedication, we speak of Francesco De Sanctis and those like him who champion a short supply chain that minimizes environmental impact while safeguarding both the consumer and nature.
A strong connection with Nature
The connection between men and nature is not merely a bucolic fantasy; it is a profound bond that sometimes intertwines destinies unbreakably. When Francesco’s grandfather passed away, his oldest and dearest Malvasia vine followed him to another realm. This monumental vine now stands proudly in the aging cellar amidst wooden barrels. Recently, it was also depicted on the winery’s facade, symbolizing centuries of history and a life renewed each year—an inspiration Francesco drew during a visit to Champagne.
Francesco’s thirst for knowledge and unceasing quest for inspiration drive him to refine the expression of his terroir in his wines continually. Fresh from a skiing trip in Trentino’s Dolomites, he shared his inspiration drawn from the region’s crisp and vibrant white wines. It’s a style he strives to emulate in his wines. Tasting the 2022 vintage from the vats, I was struck by its remarkable freshness and delightful concentration of aromas. And his Cabernet Franc – oh, my! Even in its early stage, it was utterly enticing. It stood proudly alongside its older sibling aging in wooden barrels.
A comparative tasting with Burgundy
As my visit concluded, we indulged in an appetizer while discussing art, music, and tales of sailing—shared passions, including a mutual love for Burgundy’s Pinot Noir. We uncorked a bottle of “Pinot Noir Vieilles Vignaes” from Albert Bichot and, for a truly alternative comparison, a bottle of Juno, Francesco’s Cabernet Franc. Comparing two territories and grape varieties worlds apart is a daunting task, but I must share one thing: in terms of finesse and pleasure, Juno held its own admirably against its Burgundian cousin.
With darkness settling outside, it was time to say goodby. Before parting ways, Francesco gifted me a bottle of Kerner from Abbazia di Novacella. It is a white wine that had profoundly impressed him with its finesse and freshness, offering me a glimpse of where he’s heading with his own.
As I enjoyed it for dinner that evening, I can confidently assert that De Sanctis’ wines can rival any other great Italian white wine, despite the uphill battle against preconceived notions that still hold Frascati back.
© Riproduzione riservata
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