My immersion in the world of wine has been so all-encompassing that it took a dear friend from Los Angeles, a companion from my college years in Washington, to gracefully divert my attention toward Fabio Picchi and the enchanting realm of Cibrèo. Nestled on Via del Verrocchio in Florence, this restaurant stands as a legendary establishment that transcends the ordinary dining experience.
The encounter with Fabio Picchi and his culinary haven was not merely an introduction; it was a profoundly touching and engaging experience that prompted me, for the first time, to deviate from my usual wineries’ tales. While a warm welcome is a customary expectation in any restaurant, Cibrèo transcends the norm. Their attentiveness is extraordinary and extends well beyond mere courtesy – it is woven into the fabric of glances and words that instantly envelop you in a sense of belonging, as if you were a cherished friend or a long-awaited member of the family.
A warm and sophisticated ambiance
The room bathes in a warm saffron glow reminiscent of some tea-dance twenties, casting a nostalgic ambiance. Each table hosts a flickering candle, heightening the intimacy that envelops the space. Our table, strategically positioned to command the entire room, seems almost serendipitously familiar – the same spot as the previous visit. It is a cherished spot for my friend Dom, a loyal patron from California, while I, arriving from Rome, am admittedly experiencing this for the first time, feeling a twinge of self-consciousness.
The room swiftly fills with an infectious blend of smiles and cheer, transcending the mere pursuit of gastronomic delights. We’re all here in search of that elusive moment, that crescendo of joy that extends beyond the culinary experience. The positive energy permeates the space, creating an atmosphere so buoyant and palpable that you could almost slice through it with a knife. Seated at separate tables, we are all subtly and unconsciously connected, and as I peruse the wine list (a professional habit), I’m reminded of the opening scene from the movie “Love Actually”.
Love Actually
Everything brings to mind the opening scene at the airport, where people reunite with heartfelt hugs. The voice-over poignantly reflects,
“Whenever I get gloomy with the state of the world, I think about the arrivals gate at Heathrow Airport … fathers and sons, mothers and daughters, husbands and wives, boyfriends, girlfriends, old friends… If you look for it, I’ve got a sneaky feeling you’ll find that love actually is all around.”
Here, for me, it won’t be the bustling airport arrivals; henceforth, it will always be the hall of Cibrèo Restaurant.
Engrossed in the harmonious energy of this vibrant setting, where a comforting sense of connection envelops me, my attention is drawn to a silver-haired couple. I had glimpsed them earlier in the day, strolling through Florence, hand in hand, their gaze filled with the timeless allure of a first date. Indeed, love is all around, and in this very moment, I find myself in the perfect place, utterly in love with life.
An unforgettable dining experience
Love takes on a robust, vibrant, and bittersweet form in the words of Giulio Picchi, who shares the story behind his Fisherman’s Soup. “My father imparted this recipe to me; it’s a humble dish from the island fishermen, crafted with vegetables and the less sought-after fish, the ones often overlooked at the market.”
The dish is so divine that, unable to resist its allure, I gladly indulge in seconds – a gesture met with intuitive generosity by the director. Cristina Petrelli, poised and attentive, must have sensed the unspoken joy in my eyes, promptly delivering another plate. It is a remarkable experience to have someone anticipate your desires and care for you in such a thoughtful manner. It is a level of attention I am unaccustomed to but deeply appreciate.
A stew adorned with peas and potatoes, evoking the warmth of home, family, and soothing comfort, is elevated by delectable bites of tender amberjack, a deep-sea fish with a delicately succulent flesh that I hold dear. Rather than attempting to dissect the organoleptic spectrum, the dish’s balance, or the richness of its flavors, I prefer to refrain. Much like those extraordinary wines that defy adequate description, this experience is best savored with closed eyes, allowing the moment’s profound pleasure to be etched into memory.
Ah, the wine – an essential protagonist in this culinary tale! For a feast embracing the sea’s bounty and beyond, only a wine tethered to both the maritime and mountainous landscapes would suffice. In the vasttness of Italian viticulture, few embody this spirit quite like Tenuta San Francesco’s Tramonti Bianco – Costa d’Amalfi DOC, a beguiling blend of Falanghina, Biancolella, and Pepella that never fails to quicken my pulse.
This versatile libation, with its invigorating freshness and graceful structure, proved an enchanting companion not only to the maritime delights but also to the potato and ricotta flan with ragout, and the delectably tender pigeon stuffed with mustard with sweet and sour Borettane onions – Dom’s chosen delights. While harmonizing seamlessly with each dish, the Tramonti Bianco reached its zenith when sipped alongside the amberjack stew, creating a ‘dolby surround’ effect that elevated every morsel, even the bread with which I elegantly indulged in polishing my plate.
A sweet farewell
Dessert beckoned, a moment I typically resist as I am not too fond of sweets. However, unwilling to bid farewell to this enchanting evening, I succumbed to the appeal of the flourless chocolate cake – a luscious, creamy embrace so exquisite that I momentarily forgot to capture it in a photograph! Equally delightful was Dom’s choice, a ricotta and orange cake that added a harmonious final note to our culinary symphony.
As the evening reluctantly bids adieu, the time has come to depart. We set out in search of excitement and return home with eyes aglow with wonder and hearts brimming with cherished memories. Another gracious gesture unfolds as a beautiful girl effortlessly hands me my jacket without me asking anything – a seamless act, a testament to the magic in the details. It is these small touches that make all the difference.
Fabio Picchi’s Legacy
And in its simplicity, I now extend a challenge to all to make tomato sauce the way he did:
“To know how to fuss, to know how to make tomato sauce, is like moving a lever that will slowly but steadily lead us towards a better world.”
Fabio Picchi
Dear Fabio, as our paths will never cross in person, this remains a perpetual regret. Yet, I feel your presence, ever vibrant in the very room you held dear. Tonight, within the sanctuary of your culinary haven, my world has undeniably become richer. You’ve gifted me a perfect moment, and I pledge to return soon, for it is never too late to forge friendships, wherever you may be.
In the spirit of your wisdom, Fabio, I believe that mastering the art of attention, the knack for those seemingly inconspicuous details, is a transformative force propelling us towards a realm of collective betterment. Until our paths intersect again, my gratitude echoes through the ambiance you cultivated so lovingly.
© Riproduzione riservata
Enjoyed this article? Share it and subscribe to this Blog to support us. Join the other 1,553 followers and receive more content like this in your mailbox. Thank you!
Your personal data will never be shared with anyone and will only be used fo this purpose.
Sommelier on a Mission 