The 2019 Brunello di Montalcino vintage stands as a testament to authenticity and excellence. Laden with the essence of a great year, it is characterized by redeeming attributes that converge into a harmonious and satisfying expression of the renowned appellation. Structural completeness is indisputable, hinting at a trajectory of maturation in the bottle that points unequivocally toward a glorious future.
While it may be premature to declare it the vintage of the century, considering the century is yet to unfold, we will confidently label it the “vintage of truth,” destined to etch an indelible mark in our memories. Guided by a benevolent and well-balanced Nature, a rarity in itself nowadays, due to global warming effects, this vintage harmoniously echoes both the voice of the terroir and the distinct style of each producer, crystal clear in its expression.
Brunello di Montalcino 2019 reaffirms our certainties.
As we stepped into the historic Chiostro di Sant’Agostino, home to the eagerly anticipated Benvenuto Brunello Premiere, our expectations were not just based on hearsay. The grapes, having weathered the seasons impeccably, manifested perfection in every ripening parameter. The potential of greatness was evident from the inaugural barrel tasting on January 4, 2020, a remarkable beginning that sparked curiosity and joy.
This single sip marked the commencement—an astonishing incipit that stirred curiosity and joy, setting the stage for many more tasting experiences across the years, unraveling the rich tapestry of Montalcino’s terroir.
Tasting wine in the making is akin to peering over an artist’s shoulder, appreciating each nuanced brushstroke that contributes to the culmination of a masterpiece. The evolution on the canvas becomes a living work of art itself, unfolding with each passing moment. Likewise, each barrel tasting becomes a narrative suspended in timelessness, where the echoes of the past and the promises of the future converge, fully manifest in the present.
Power and control
Certainly, you might recall Annie Leibovitz’s memorable capture of Carl Lewis poised on red stilettos just before sprinting from the starting blocks. For a remarkable 31 years, the Pirelli brand has been inseparable from the enduring slogan, “Power is nothing without control“. This iconic pairing resurfaced in contemplation as we navigated the progression of tastings, particularly in this vintage where every element finds its place, even if the equilibrium is not yet flawless.
Every taste, rich in intensity and refinement, carries a satisfying dynamic tension on the palate. The predominant challenge lies in achieving an optimal balance among alcoholic warmth, tannins, and acidity. As is customary, the most persuasive expressions emerge through the delicate interplay and harmonious equilibrium of all these elements.
Without assigning scores or rankings, we wish to acknowledge the labels that stood out in our journey:
- Casanuova delle Cerbaie – an embodiment of grace and layers in its aromas, a freshness that dances dynamically on the palate, and adorned with sweet, velvety tannins. This Brunello is so delightful that it will inevitably vanish too quickly on every occasion.
- Poggio di Sotto – a cherished Brunello that garners admiration rather than debate. It stands as an exemplary wine, profound, complete, and harmoniously balanced in every facet, firmly securing its place among the pinnacle of the denomination’s excellence.
- Franco Pacenti – Precision and elegance, now ingrained characteristics, reach their zenith in the lush and multifaceted sipping experience of Rosildo. A true “single vineyard” that strikes a flawless equilibrium between energy and harmony.
- Fattoi – Balance, intensity, and silkiness seamlessly meld with a complex, profound, and refined nose in this Brunello. Its taste and olfactory coherence significantly amplify its overall pleasantness.
- La Serena – A lyrical ode from the earth to the sky, it presents an intense and varied bouquet infused with wild flowers, aromatic herbs, and a hint of sea breeze. Complex and robust yet nimble and taut, each sip brings forth a joyful experience.
- Sanlorenzo – This year, Luciano Ciolfi unveils an unparalleled Brunello of inherent elegance. Currants, blueberries, and wild strawberries, coupled with a discernible balsamic essence and a dense, caressing tannic texture, evoke sensations reminiscent of Burgundy in each sip.
- Pietroso – Radiant, luminous, and explosive, this Sangiovese offers a didactic olfactory experience with a burst of violets and sour cherries, followed by nuanced notes of blood, orange, and cocoa. An ideal companion for a rare Florentine steak.
- Cava D’Onice – Colombaio – Characterized by pleasantness and precision, its balsamic, fresh, and balanced sipping profile, complemented by sweet and seamlessly integrated tannins, creates an infinite and unforgettable finish.
- Ridolfi – Gianni Maccari’s Brunellos are akin to watercolors, meticulously flowing with elegance and precision. The Donna Rebecca, in particular, is profound and sumptuous, boasting notes of chocolate and orange that render it truly irresistible.
- Gorelli – Epitomizing Pirelli’s slogan, this Brunello adeptly combines complexity and gracefulness, substance and lightness, elegance and ease, power and control. A superb wine destined to unfold intense peaks of joy over time.
Once again, Montalcino stands as an exemplar of excellence within the realm of DOCG designations. Its production distinguishes itself through a pervasive capability to enhance the specific characteristics of terroir, reflecting the nuanced personal interpretations of each unique winery. The evolving stylistic orientation is increasingly geared toward wines that seamlessly marry structure and intensity with the pleasurable nuances of flavor, dynamism, and a velvety smoothness upon the palate. These wines are crafted to offer immediate enjoyment while possessing a timeless quality destined to endure.
Regrettably, a discernible increase in defections among the region’s premier wineries has become noticeable. This trend is concerning, as it represents a departure from the collective strength and identity of Montalcino’s winemaking community. We earnestly hope for a swift reversal of this phenomenon, anticipating the possible return of producers whose absence is acutely felt as their unique contributions are integral to the rich tapestry of Montalcino’s winemaking legacy.
© Riproduzione riservata
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